Decks

Once you have completed your deck plans and are ready to build a patio deck consider what type of wood you'll use for the construction. Redwood and pine are the most commonly used. You can upgrade to harder and stronger woods but the cost will rise accordingly.

With your deck plan in hand carefully measure and layout the deck using wooden sticks driven into the ground and string connecting one to another. Have all these stakes outside the dimensions so the corners are located where the strings cross, not at the stakes. Level the grade and remove all grass, sod and plants. Rake the area flat and cover with a layer of landscaping fabric sheeting to prevent plant growth. Cover the landscaping fabric with 2 or 3 inches of gravel.

Using the house structure as a foundation for one side of the deck, add a ledger securely fastened to the masonry or stud structure of the house. It should be 3 inches shorter than the length of the deck to allow for end joists.

Once the ledger is in place use these strings to set the height and grade for drainage so that the strings represent the top outer edge of the deck platform. Identify where the foundation pilings are to be placed based on the lumber span requirements. Using a post hole digger, dig holes for each foundation pier. Widen the bottom of the hole to increase the diameter of the concrete footing. Before digging contact the utility company to identify any buried gas, electrical or sewer lines. Place the dirt in a wheel barrow or on plastic sheeting to keep it from mixing with the gravel. Add 6 inches of gravel to the bottom of the hole leaving the depth as required bu code above the gravel.

Check local building codes to determine required sizes for the foundation piers. Use sections of fiber-form tubes to create the footings inside the holes. the tube should be 2 inches shorter than the depth of the hole, with 2 inches protruding above the hole. This will put the foundation piling 2" above ground and allow a wider base 4'' deep below the tube. Use staked cleats to establish the precise location for the top of the tube. Attach the tube to these positioners. There should be 4 inches of space from the bottom of the tube to the top of the gravel base in the bottom of the hole.

Cut two pieces of rebar per piling. Make them the length of the tube and then bend one end into an "L" shape with 2" of the rod. Have ready one "L" shaped anchor bolt per piling as well.

Once all holes, tubes, rebar and anchor bolts are ready. Fill each tube with about a foot of concrete. Allow to set for a few minutes and insert the rebar with the "L" down into the concrete. Position the top of the rebar 1/2 inch below the top of the tube. Add more concrete makins sure the rebar stays away from the edged of the tube. Fill each tube to the top with concrete and insert one "L" shaped anchor bolt in the dead center of the piling with all buried except the threads protruding up out of the concrete pointing straight upward. This anchor bolt will be used to fasten the post anchor to the piling at a later time. Smooth the top of the concrete on all pilings for appearance.

Allow the concrete to set completely and add post anchors to the top of the posts and fasten in place with a nut and large washer onto the protruding anchor bolt. Accurately define the exact position for the 4 x 4 posts which will be fastened into the post anchors. Use a string line to establish the alignment and cut the posts several inches longer than you know they will need to be. Brace the posts in place with stakes and vertically level each post. Extend a straight board and level from the top of the ledger rail to the post and mark the post at the bottom of the board (which is the exact height of the top of the ledger). Measure down from this line the height of the joist boards and make second mark. Measure down again the depth of the beams and make a final mark for cutting to trim the post to the correct height. Carefully cut each post with a nice square saw cut. Mark and trim all other posts using the same steps for each one.

Set the beam in place atop the posts and fasten with post caps. You now have the two basic support structures in place. Mark position of each joist, 16 inches apart, on the ledger. Fasten one side of the joist straps to the ledger for each joist using a scrap piece of joist to make sure the top of the joist will align flat with the top of the ledger.

Cut all joists to length and treat the ends of the wood with preservative. Set each joist in place in its hanger. nail the second side of the hanger to the ledger and then fasten the joist to the hanger. Add the outside header joist to the other end of the joists and fasten the joists ends in place with joist hangers. Check the entire unit for square and fasten the joists to the beam for final positioning.

Decking

Apply your decking material cross wise to the joists for the final deck flooring. A variety of materials are available for the final deck surface. You can choose from natural woods or composite materials. Seek the advice of your local home improvement center or lumber yard in choosing the best decking material for your location and budget.

Deck Railings

Safety is the primary function of railings - to prevent falls. By nature, the railing is an integral part of the decorative value of the deck. You can choose from a variety of materials and design concepts to create sturdy, handsome railings. Local code may dictate standards for spacing, height and other factors. Consult the local authority for details.

Related Books & Publications

Related Websites

Decks USA

Resources

DeckPlans.com

Related Subjects

Deck Safety - North American Deck and Railing Association